Captains Update, May 17, 2008, Bahia Hanamoenoa on the Island of Tahuata

Please forgive me for taking so long to give you an update. A lot has happened since the last time we talked. Before I get started I want to tell those of you who have emailed that I am sorry I haven't got back to you. Since we crossed the equator our ability to send and receive email is very limited. There is only one station that we are able to get connected with and that station will only let us be on line with them for 30 minutes a day. By the time we send some messages and then start receiving
we run out of time. That's what you get when its free so It might take awhile for me to get back to you.
We arrived in the Marquesas on May 8th. We did the crossing in 21 days and that is way above average for 2 people from Denver. The last 4 days of the crossing was like we were in a speed boat. We had 2 days that we averaged 190 nm. That probably doesn't sound like much to land lubbers but for a sail boat that is moving. A little perspective if we did 120 nm a day we thought we were doing well. So, when we got to the islands our first stop was the island of Fatu Hiva. The bay we anchored in was
like going back in time. For 6 days we never paid money for anything. Everything we got was bartered for. Seven pamplemousse (grapefruits) & a stalk of bananas was about one tee shirt and 3 small bottles of shampoo. Barbara got real good at wheeling and dealing with the locals. I probably gave too much away for what I traded for but in my mind the things we were trading were really throw aways. The best way to describe the bay we were in is to envision the movie Jurassic Park. In fact we cut
one of our hikes short because we feared a T-Rex was right down the path. Every morning I would go up on deck to have a cup of coffee and I would have to pinch myself I just could not believe we were actually here and living our dream. What a great way to start our journey in the South Pacific.
The boat has been great. We have had a few bumps in the road like the generator stopped working again and our water maker went out. Both problems were overcome and we are back with all systems normal. I am learning very quickly how all this stuff works. I better because without the generator we can't turn on the air conditioner and when the water maker goes out we can't take a shower every day. As of today all systems are working normal and that makes Barbara and me very happy.
As a foreigner we are required to check into the country and clear customs. In the Marquesas there are 3 islands you can go to that have the facilities to do that. We choose the island of Hiva Oa. We felt like we had gone into the city after being in Fatu Hiva for 6 days. We were in the largest town on the island and its population was about 1500. There was a post office, 4 little grocery stores a gas station , bank and 2 restaurants. One of the restaurants was only open for lunch. The anchorage
was a 40 minute walk into town so we rented a car for 2 days. This was the first time in over 30 days that I had to take money or a credit card out of my pocket to purchase anything. That is probably a first in my adult life. The anchorage in Hiva Oa left a lot to be desired in fact it was maybe the worst I have ever experienced. The water was only about 10 ft deep and when the tide went out and we were at low tide I probably only had about 1-2 ft of water below the keel. To make matters worse
the tides are greater during the full moon stage, which is what we are going through now. Now let's add large 4 ft rollers coming in and now the boat was rocking and rolling like we were at sea. Finally Saturday morning we were exhausted and at first light we got out of there. Next stop the Island of Tahuata which is a short 7 mile trip across the channel from Hiva Oa. We are currently anchored in a little bay with a white sand beach and water so clear you can see forever. This bay is completely
deserted with only lime, coconut and banana trees. Back in paradise! This is a place you read about in travel magazines when they talk about the islands in the South Pacific. It's beautiful and made even more so by the anchorage we just left but tomorrow we move on.
It is really hard to describe the beauty here. The sea, the people, the sky, sunsets it is too much to put into words. Got to go, its Sunday night and I have to get up and go to another little bay to sit and watch another sunset. Wishing all who take the time to read our story another great week and good health where ever you are. "Over and Out Destiny back to 16."