Barbara did not believe I would ever sit down and write another log. So that was a challenge I couldn't refuse. I just looked to see when I wrote last and it was in April before we took off from New Zealand. It would be foolish and probably pretty boring for me to tell all so I will just stay with the high points.
Our first stop after leaving New Zealand was Fiji. You could sail there for a lifetime and never see it all. Perfect Islands with white sand beaches and swaying palm trees and water so clear you thought you could see over a hundred feet under water. The reefs were abundant with fish and the coral was the healthiest we had seen in the South Pacific. We spent almost 3 months in Fiji and only sailed the western side of the islands. So much to see and so little time. With all that there were 3 things that really stood out in my mind about Fiji. Kava, the reefs, and the Manta Rays.
Kava, for those that are not familiar with this island drink, is a root that is ground up into a powder mixed with water and then drank. In Fiji it is customary that when you anchor off a village you go into the village and seek out the chief and present him with kava (sevu sevu) as a token of appreciation for him letting you anchor off his village. So, for us to present kava we needed to go to the market and buy the kava. Not hard to find because half the market is people selling kava. As they are selling they are drinking the stuff so you can have free samples. I forgot to mention kava taste like dirty dish water or maybe drinking from a mud puddle. It is really awful stuff. Being that I am not a sissy you have to step up and drink it like you like it. When we found the perfect place to buy our kava, we settle on a price, and how much we want. Since we were new to this our cab driver came with us and helped us negotiate. The next important point is how it is wrapped so it can be presented to the Chief. The roots with dirt and all are wrapped in newspaper and tied with ribbon in such a way as to look like a bouquet of flowers. The newspaper has to be wrapped a certain way and the ribbon has to be very tight as to hold it all together. I can't make this stuff up. Our cab driver, Dole, didn't think the guy was doing it right so he took over which caused a little disturbance at the mart. We got 3 bundles weighing about ½ kg each. We are ready to find a village and present. By the way, our 3 bundles of dried out roots cost about $30 US.
We had some friends join us on the boat for a week and we thought it would be perfect to seek out a village on one of the remote islands and present our Kava to the Chief. Our search led us to the island of Waya in the Yasawa Group. The main village was on the south end of the island so we were hoping to find the chief there. After anchoring Sandy and I went ashore to present our Gift of Kava and ask permission to anchor in the bay. Not sure where to look we just wandered into the village. We saw some villagers sitting under a shelter and we ask them where the chief was. One of the elderly looking guys stood up and said he was the chief. His name was Big John and didn't look very chiefly to me but what do I know and I certainly wasn't going to argue with him. After introductions and some small talk we presented our Kava to the Chief. He took it and prayed some ancient blessing over it and we were now free to go through the village and anchor in the bay. We asked if we could come back later and bring our wives. He said that was good and we left. We were a little miffed that we didn't get to sit and have Kava with the Chief but didn't want to get pushy. So, at about 4pm we all came ashore. Normally women do not drink kava so we weren't sure if Debra and Barbara would be invited to stay. As soon as we got into the village we were escorted to the shelter, where Sandy and I first met the Chief. We were invited to sit on the dirt floor and they went to get the Chief. His hut was next to where we were sitting so we could tell they were trying to wake him up from his nap. Chiefs nap and do nothing all day so they can drink Kava all night. They finally got him up and after introductions again the kava was mixed with the water and about 5 guys sat down with us and the chief to do Kava. The girls were invited to stay so we are set to have our Kava. We all sit in a big circle with your legs crossed. I really didn't think my body could get in that position. There is one guy in the middle that tends to the kava. He mixes it and pours it when the chief says to. They started with me since I was the Captain, what respect. There is one coconut shell that everyone drinks from. When they dip it into the bowl they ask you "high or low tide", which translates to how much do you want? Being that I am the captain I say high tide, he then fills the shell to the top and hands it over. Everyone then claps and says "bula bula" and you drink the cup in one gulp. That's probably a good thing because if you stopped you might not want to finish. You hand the bowl back to the guy and they fill the bowl for the next person. When everyone has had their turn everything stops and you talk with everyone. Side bar discussions go on and questions are asked and generally everyone communicates. After about 10 minutes the chief barks out some orders and the next round of drinking starts. This will go on for about 7 rounds or longer depending on how much kava was made. By this time my legs and back are numb from sitting crossed leg on the hard ground. I am really ready to go back to the boat and have a beer but you can't leave until the Chief says we are done. We started this at about 4pm and we didn't get done till about 7. Kava affects everyone a little differently but generally it numbs your lips, tounge, and throat. You will have some slurring of your words and maybe a little difficulty walking but you will really sleep well. And it only takes about 3 days to get the taste out of your mouth. Fiji kava is not real strong unlike Vanuatu kava which is very strong - two or three times more potent. Kava is also an appetite suppressant. You can tell the villagers who drink a lot are real skinny. Most villages forbid alcohol use in the villages so the only game in town is Kava. In Fiji kava is ceremonial and has a prescribed way to be used. In Vanuatu the Kava is stronger and there are kava bars everywhere. Go in the bar get a cup and have at it. No chief and no Bula Bula. More than you ever wanted to know about Kava.
Bear with me I know this is a long log. In Fiji we got to swim with the Manta Rays. Last summer we swam with whales this summer the Mantas. What an awesome experience. We did the swim in a pass between 2 islands. The pass narrows and forces all the fish and nutrients in the water through a small break and at high tide the water is rushing through the pass at about 6 mph. What we did was go to the upstream side and jump in the water and just let the current take us through the pass. When you get in the water and put your head down and start snorkeling you see thousand of fish. All there for the same reason to feed or be eaten by the bigger fish. As you drift along suddenly you see this huge manta with a wing span of about 10-12 ft moving effortlessly up stream. I tried to turn and go with them but the current was too much. It's not long and another and another goes by you. Some get so close you think they might hit you. You are awed by their size and how graceful they are. After about 30 minutes it is over. All the fish and Mantas are gone. I have to say that was truly a highlight for me this summer.
The last big thought from me on Fiji was how difficult it was to sail in Fiji waters. What makes it so difficult is there are coral reefs and rock out-croppings everywhere. What makes it even more interesting is some of this nasty stuff is not even included in your charts. When you went island hopping you never went if it was cloudy or overcast. You needed to be able and see what was in the water and you never ventured out after dark. The rule was always making sure when you were sailing to do so in daylight and good weather. Even following that simple rule was not a guarantee that you would be unscathed. There are many boats each year that end up on the reefs or have some encounter with the reefs and coral heads. I tell this because I was a victim. I just turned into a pass too soon and the bottom got us. After I made the turn I saw I made a mistake and started backing down trying to go back where we had come from as quick as I could but the momentum of the boat was enough to take us into the reef. Only the front section of the keel was touched and we were able to escape without any real damage just some of the bottom paint scratched off. After the escape and getting back on track it was time to clean my drawers and thank all the Fijian gods and all other gods for saving us. I still have nightmares about that. It is now time to anchor and drink all the beer on the island.
After 3 months in Fiji on August 6th it was off to the islands of Vanuatu. I will update you on that in my next report. This is Destiny, WDD8870, standing by on 1 6.
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